Cold Process Soap Recipes Page Four

 Note! You are advised to double-check the formulation of all recipes before making any of them. Recipes using sodium or potassium hydroxide should be run through a lye calculator before use.

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Basic Goat Milk and Honey Soap #2

13 cups lard or rendered fat (6.5 pounds)
12oz. can red Devil lye
1/2 cup honey
4 cups goat milk
1 cup hot water
Into a large stainless steel or enamel container, dissolve the honey into the hot water. Add the 4 cups goat milk, stir to mix well and slowly add the lye to the milk/honey mixture. This will get very hot. Let it set until it cools down to 75 degrees. This could take an hour ormore. When the lye mixture reaches 75 degrees, warm the lard to 85
degrees and pour in a slow steady stream into the lye/milk mixture. Stir constantly until the mixture reaches the consistency of honey. This will take 20 or 30 minutes.
When thick as honey pour into prepared molds. Allow to set for 24 to 48 hours. Un-mold and cut into bars. Air-dry the soap for 4-5 weeks to cure it.

One-Bar Soap Recipe

0.6 oz lye
1.5 oz water
1.5 oz olive oil
1.28 oz coconut oil
1.5 oz palm oil
Combine at 120. May take as long as 20-30 minutes to trace. Can pour into styrofoam cups which will insulate for you.


Chatzie's Strawberry Soap (Rebatched)

You can use Citric Acid, or even Fruit Fresh (which is a brand of powdered Citric Acid)  I use about 1/4 tsp in a 2lb rebatch, with about 1/2 cup of take that to your ratio box.....and you get 1/4 tsp per 1/2 cup of maybe that will help you figure what you need for your particular batch?
BTW, the astringent properties of the berries is best derived from using the whole fruit, not just the juice.  And strawberrys are very high in vitamin C already, not to mention Betacarotin....just watch that mold thing real careful, and don't add too much thinking if some is good, more is better. Your soap won't set up right if you add too much.  IF you can bring yourself to do it, whirl you berries a few seconds  in the blender, and then pour off the juice and use primarily the pulp...that is where you get the most benefit of the astringent without adding too much water/moisture to your rebatch.  But if you are like me and can't seem to get past the thought of "wasting" that lovely berry juice to color the soap, measure how much you have and subtract it from the water the recipe calls for for the rebatching.  And please, please, please, be patient as it all melts together.  Use low heat, and stir and stir and stir, but don't turn the heat up.  It will be slow, but oh!  so well worth the wait!


Mosaic Soap (CP/MP soap)
I make a soap that is very popular with my customers it consists of leftover scraps of my CP (all colours) which are usually in little curls from peeling them with a carot peeler to bevel the edges and smooth them off.  I put these scraps in a large rectangluar mold and pour clear M&P over it.  THe result is quite beautiful, and all the colour show through
and it is always the first soap picked up at my shows. I call this "CURLS & SWIRLS".  Even though it is not additionally scented, the scents from the CP soaps linger and mix together and everyone loves the smell.  No two batches are ever the same. **CP soap = Cold Process Soap
or homeade lye soap

Key Lime CP/MP soap
by Joy @ Angel Suds
Here is how I did it.....I made a plain batch of CP soap and grated it, I melted this with some water and corn meal.  The corn meal gives me the color and look that I needed for the crust.  I let this mixture cool and when it was workable, I pressed it into a pie pan.   I let this dry for several days.  I then melted some M&P soap, added lime EO and food
coloring.  I poured this into the soap "pie shell".  I added a few curls of green and yellow CP soap shavings.   Next step was the soap whipped cream.  For this, I  melted some of my CP grated soap, let it cool and whipped it to the
consistancy of whipped cream.  Spooning it on would probably have been easier, but I put it through a cake decorator and pumped it on.  You have to work fast if you do it this way because it get to hard to work
with quickly.  Anything that did not stick together, I simply "glued" back on with water.  It is really cool looking.

Sugared Plum Soap (CP/MP soap)
*This recipe includes a mixture of cold pour soap and melt and pour
CP soap bar
Plum FO
MP Base
Purple colorant/dye
Here's how I did it:  I made the cp soap, cut it into bars, and let it cure 4 weeks.  Next, I sliced off a sliver of the top with a crinkled french fry cutter (with the wavy blade).  Then I took a knife and cutdeep (maybe 1/4" deep) slits in each furrow.  I didn't want to take any chances on the two
pieces splitting apart.  Next, all the soaps went back into the mold with wood slats slipped in to hold the bars tightly together (since they shrink during curing). Melt the melt and pour base. Add plum fragranceoil and purple colorant.  I poured the purple over the top, let sit afew hours, then cut the bars again.  They needed a little trimming, but not much.
Homesong Handcrafted Soaps

Whey Cool Soap
TX June
11 oz Sunflower oil
8 oz coconut oil
7 oz palm oil
11.37 oz Whey ( you could sub milk if you wanted; I'm sure..I also read that you could put store bought yogurt in cheesecloth and the water strained from that is whey; you could use that too)
3.98 oz lye
Mixed when  lye water and oil reached 100 degrees
Added 1/4 tsp green pigment to a little amount of water (about 1/2 TBLS) which I heated first, so as not to shock my oil mixture. Also added Peppermint EO until it smelled good. LOL About 1 tsp. Added pigment and EO at trace.

Cranberry Coconut Soap
Large Batch
By Nancy aka soapstress ;)
80 oz olive
6 oz coconut oil
19.7 oz water
4.3 oz coconut milk (woulda used more milk, less water, but at the time
I was experimenting and this was all I had for coconut milk --next time
it will be 12 oz water and 12 oz milk)
11.5 oz lye
3 cerise color chips
1 oz cranberry FO
1 oz coconut FO
Set aside 2 oz coconut oil.  Mix lye/water bring to 85-90 degrees. Heat olive and coconut oils and get to 110 degrees.  Mix together, get trace.  Heat the other 2 oz of coconut milk and melt the color chips in it while it heats.  At trace, add the fos, then pour in the coconut oil/cerise color blend and gently swirl into the soap.  Very gently as
when you pour it will swirl more.  That's it!  I did add titanium dioxide first to whiten the soap, but it wasn't necessary, the white part would have been a nice creamy color without it. I just love this one, it's my fave.

Cream and Honey Soap
By Patrice Spencer
6 ounces coconut oil
6 ounces crisco
4 ounces olive oil
2 ounces lye
1 cup water
1/4 cup honey
2 ounces beeswax
1/4 cup heavy whipping cream
Melt coconut oil and Crisco together. Pour lye into the water. Melt the honey, beeswax and olive oil together. When the lye/water is 110 and the coconut oil/Crisco is 130, pour the lye/water into the oils. After this traces, pour the honey mixture into the traced soap. After pouring in the honey/beeswax pour in the cream. I used heavy whipping cream. Don't ask me why I did this...I will plead insanity. Continue stirring until blended and pour into molds. Unmold after 24-48 hours after pouring. Age3 to 4 weeks.

Raspberry Oatmeal Soap
12 oz grated soap
5 oz water
1/4 cup finely ground oats
1/8 oz Raspberry Fragrance oil
Combine the grated soap and water in a saucepan, and set on medium
When the soap has melted, add the ground oats, and raspberry fragrance.
Stir well, then pack into molds and let sit until hardened.

Heather Stevens


French Vanilla Almond Soap
1/3 cup whole almonds
10 oz grated soap
1/2 cup distilled water
2 tablespoon almond oil
1/4 teaspoon Dragon Bubbles French Vanilla Fragrance oil

Grind the almonds to a fine powder in a food processor or coffee
and set aside. In a heavy saucepan bring the water to a boil; then
reduce heat to a simmer and add grated soap. When the soap has melted,
remove the pan from the heat and add the almond powder, almond oil, and
vanilla fragrance oil, stirring until well blended. Spoon the soap into
a mold and let set for five hours or until hardened.


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