Hot Process Crockpot Soap 2001(Victoria Patterson)

Use your favorite soap recipe, but cut it, if you need to, so that it will
fit in your crockpot. You can use water to see about how many ounces it
takes to fill to the halfway mark or less in your crockpot, this will give
you an 'idea' of how much oil to use.  If you divide your recipe be sure to
run it through a lye calculator again so that your lye amount is correct.
1) Measure your lye and water, stir and let cool while you measure your
oils. Turn your crockpot on high. (You may need to adjust the heat later)
When  your oils are melted and the lye water is clear you can mix the two
together as usual and bring to trace, the same as a cold process batch. I do
not worry about  the temps of the lye water and the oils.
2) Pour the traced soap into your crockpot and cover. My batches have been
finished cooking in 45 to 60 minutes. I prepare my mold now. Be sure all
your additives are sitting out ready for use.
This is where you will need to take some notes of your own as crockpots can
The first few times you make soap this way you will want to watch it more
closely, checking it at least every 10-15 minutes. You can stir it if you
feel the need or just let it cook the full time and then stir.  If you have
used too many ounces of oil for the size of the crockpot it may boil over
and you will need to stir it down and leave the lid off for a minute or so.
After a few batches you will be able to determine if your particular
crockpot needs to be set on high or low or a combination of the two. You
will also know if you are a 'stirrer' or a 'nonstirrer'.
3) The soap will have the 'transluscent' or 'dirty vaseline' look when
finished and should be at the 180 to 200 degree mark.
At this point I check it with a  thermometer and let it cool to 160 degrees
if I am going to add anything to it. If you add your fragrances when the
soap is too hot you may see them whoosh up into the air. That is a
disturbing sight. Stir well after adding any goodies and glop into the mold.
If you are making soap without additives you should still stir it before
glopping into the mold. I use a wooden log mold oiled and lined with freezer
paper. When the soap is in the mold I pound the mold on the counter or the
floor to get air pockets out and help level the soap. Then I cover the soap
with another piece of freezer wrap and smooth the top of it as much as
possible. I think if you cover the soap at this point it will heat the
surface up and return it to 'vaseline' and help smooth it out. Let it cool,
remove from mold and slice. The soap may be used right away but will need to
sit and harden and shrink for a week or two before you would want to
wrap/label it.
~Do not have your face right over the pot when adding fragrance, it can
really surprise your nose and I am sure it is not good for you. (It was not
good for me!)
~I have made all the same size batches and some boil over easier than
others -I believe different oil combinations act differently.
~Scrape the soap out of your crockpot and use it for soapballs-let it cool a
bit before you do this.
~Some people pour the finished soap into 'another pot' to cool to the 160
degree mark. It will cool faster than in the crockpot which holds heat for
an incredibly long time. I leave mine in the crockpot, it is usually cooled
in 45 minutes or less. I don't want an extra pan to wash.
~Be sure that the mold you use can take the high heat of hp soap.
~You may set your crockpot in the sink while your soap is cooking, this
would help with cleanup in case of a boilover.
Torry Ridge Soap Works


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