Hot Process Crockpot Soap © 2001(Victoria Patterson)

Use your favorite soap recipe, but cut it, if you need to, so that it will

fit in your crockpot. You can use water to see about how many ounces it

takes to fill to the halfway mark or less in your crockpot, this will give

you an 'idea' of how much oil to use.  If you divide your recipe be sure to

run it through a lye calculator again so that your lye amount is correct.

1) Measure your lye and water, stir and let cool while you measure your

oils. Turn your crockpot on high. (You may need to adjust the heat later)

When  your oils are melted and the lye water is clear you can mix the two

together as usual and bring to trace, the same as a cold process batch. I do

not worry about  the temps of the lye water and the oils.

2) Pour the traced soap into your crockpot and cover. My batches have been

finished cooking in 45 to 60 minutes. I prepare my mold now. Be sure all

your additives are sitting out ready for use.

This is where you will need to take some notes of your own as crockpots can

differ.

The first few times you make soap this way you will want to watch it more

closely, checking it at least every 10-15 minutes. You can stir it if you

feel the need or just let it cook the full time and then stir.  If you have

used too many ounces of oil for the size of the crockpot it may boil over

and you will need to stir it down and leave the lid off for a minute or so.

After a few batches you will be able to determine if your particular

crockpot needs to be set on high or low or a combination of the two. You

will also know if you are a 'stirrer' or a 'nonstirrer'.

3) The soap will have the 'transluscent' or 'dirty vaseline' look when

finished and should be at the 180 to 200 degree mark.

At this point I check it with a  thermometer and let it cool to 160 degrees

if I am going to add anything to it. If you add your fragrances when the

soap is too hot you may see them whoosh up into the air. That is a

disturbing sight. Stir well after adding any goodies and glop into the mold.

If you are making soap without additives you should still stir it before

glopping into the mold. I use a wooden log mold oiled and lined with freezer

paper. When the soap is in the mold I pound the mold on the counter or the

floor to get air pockets out and help level the soap. Then I cover the soap

with another piece of freezer wrap and smooth the top of it as much as

possible. I think if you cover the soap at this point it will heat the

surface up and return it to 'vaseline' and help smooth it out. Let it cool,

remove from mold and slice. The soap may be used right away but will need to

sit and harden and shrink for a week or two before you would want to

wrap/label it.

~Do not have your face right over the pot when adding fragrance, it can

really surprise your nose and I am sure it is not good for you. (It was not

good for me!)

~I have made all the same size batches and some boil over easier than

others -I believe different oil combinations act differently.

~Scrape the soap out of your crockpot and use it for soapballs-let it cool a

bit before you do this.

~Some people pour the finished soap into 'another pot' to cool to the 160

degree mark. It will cool faster than in the crockpot which holds heat for

an incredibly long time. I leave mine in the crockpot, it is usually cooled

in 45 minutes or less. I don't want an extra pan to wash.

~Be sure that the mold you use can take the high heat of hp soap.

~You may set your crockpot in the sink while your soap is cooking, this

would help with cleanup in case of a boilover.

Torry Ridge Soap Works

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