Cold Process Soap Recipes Page One

 Note! You are advised to double-check the formulation of all recipes before making any of them. Recipes using sodium or potassium hydroxide should be run through a lye calculator before use.

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Soapnuts Newbie Beginner Soapmaking Recipe by Peg Frye
first best recipe you can make is Castile.
it has all pourable items and the soap is actually
really good for your skin..


40 oz olive oil

5 oz. lye

14  oz water.

mix at 100 degrees, hand stir for the first 15
minutes, then start zapping with your stick blender.
this soap can take a lonnnnnnnnnnnng time to trace, so
be patient and watch the changes before your eyes.
if you  want to add goodies, do it at trace, having
reserved some of the 40 oz in a lil dish to soak  them
in before adding to the soap.

"Slice of Summer" (Cucumber Soap)/©Camille Pratt

15 ounces Canola Oil
30 ounces Coconut Oil
27 ounces Olive Oil
21 ounces Palm Oil
5 ounces Shea Butter

13.75 ounces of lye
20 ounces of rain water

16 ounces of pureed cucumber (peels 'n all!)

Mix lye and water. Cool to 90°.
Pureed cukes (this will be approx. 2-3 large cukes).
Heat oils to 90°.

Mix lye solution and oils, blend well, add pureed cukes.
Bring to light trace, add fragrance of your choice (I used Sweetcakes
Econocuke - at a 1% usage rate).
Bring to heavy trace.
Pour in mold.
Leave it alone. :)

Notes: Even in very hard water it has lots of lather, very creamy and is very
soothing to skin. Uncolored, it is a very lovely pale ivory, slightly
translucent. No GSE (Grapefruit Seed Extract) needed.  If you chose to modify
this recipe by subbing other oils or butters, it will not be remotely the same
unbelievably wonderful soap.

Wild Iris Botanicals Soaps & Sundries
'SweetPeas TM' Baby Line
'Bath Confections TM' Luxury Bathing Line


   "Spoil You Stupid"
{{{{{If you have never been spoiled stupid, you have never been properly spoiled. ; ) <snort!>}}}}}

Copyright 2001 Camille Pratt
 4 oz  Avocado Oil    (8.33%)
14 oz  Coconut Oil    (29.17)
12 oz  Palm Oil         (25.00)
  2 oz  Shea Butter    (4.17)
10 oz  Soybean Oil   (20.83)
  6 oz  Sunflower Oil (12.50)
6.75 oz lye                (7%)
18 oz water

Observe all the usual safety precautions

Mix lye and water. Cool to 90 to 100* (don't make yourself crazy, just get close!)
Heat oils to 90 to 100*.

Mix lye solution and oils, blend well.

Bring to light trace, add fragrance of your choice (I used Poozart Sandalwood Vanilla FO at a 1% usage rate). Bring to medium trace.

Pour in mold.
Leave it alone. : )

Notes: If this does not lather like crazy, spoil you stupid, and condition beyond imagining, do get back with me. ; )


Nicolle's basic soap

                *This makes a small 2 pound batch of soap.

                Castor oil  2 ounces
                Cocoa butter  4 ounces
                Coconut Oil  4 ounces
                Olive oil  12 ounces
                Palm oil  10 ounces

                lye  4.3 ounces
                water 12 ounces

              Carefully measure out the water in a heatproof container.  Set it aside.  In a separate container measure 4.3 ounces of lye.  Put on rubber gloves and safety glasses.  (The next step is best done in a well ventilated area.. outside is best).
 Add the lye to the water very very slowly and stir at the same time.  Stir slowly until the lye is dissolved.  PLEASE be very careful with this mixture because it gets very hot.  Set it aside. Weigh out all of the oils and empty them into a stainless steal or enameled pan.  Put the pan on low heat until all of the oils melt.  Let the oils and lye/water mixture cool until they are around 98-100 degrees.  Safety glasses and gloves need to be on for this next step.  When they are the same temp (between 98-100) slowly start adding while stirring with a wooden spoon) the lye/water to the oils.  Stir…Stir… Stir.  Keep stirring for about 10 minutes (vigorously) until you get it
thick enough that it traces.  A trace is when the soap mixture becomes thick enough that you can design on the surface.  At this point you can add any scent, color, grains or dried herbs. Mix well and pour into a plastic mold.  Wrap the mold in a blanket and unmold after 24 hours. You soap will be ready to use after 3-4 weeks of curing.



  Jan Hanson Watermelon Shampoo Bar

 J'son Creations
                12 oz. Coconut Oil
                19 oz. Olive Oil
                12 oz. Castor Oil

                16 oz. water
                6 oz. lye

  Pour when both mixtures have reached 100 degrees. When you see a trace, add 1 oz. Watermelon FO.  Pour into mold. This will take longer than normal to set up. Leave  in the mold for 2 or 3 days. Cut when firm. Cure for about 6 weeks.



Jan Hanson-Shampoo Bar II

1 # 8 oz Castor Oil

1 # Coconut

2 # 6 oz Olive oil
8 oz Palm Kernel Flakes

Superfat at 5%..........11.85 oz (336 gm) of lye
1 # 12 oz water

This sets up faster than the old one and seems to be a harder bar

Editor's Note: # stands for pound(s)

Lori's Big Batch of Soap

40 oz coconut oil
40 oz olive oil
64 oz soybean oil (veggie shortening)
20 oz sodium hydroxide (lye)
5 1/2 cups water

I combine fats and lye at 90 degrees.  Add 4 to 6 oz of fragrance
and 1/2 cup ground botanicals at trace.  Usually traces within
20 minutes because of the size of the batch.

Mango Soap

10 oz coconut oil
4 oz shea butter
2 oz almond oil
6 fl oz water
2.44 oz lye
1/2 oz of Mango FO


  Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe!

    Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk every time!

    42 oz olive oil
    28 oz coconut oil
    18 oz palm oil
    12.7 oz Red Devil Lye
    33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too )
    1 cup ground oatmeal
    4 Tbsp. raw honey

    fats and oil temp: 92 degrees
    lye/milk temp: 92 degrees
    cure for 4-6 weeks
    Even with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy


Kitchen Hands ( 4lbs of oils)

28oz olive oil
16 of palm oil
16 oz coconut oil
4oz cocoa butter
26oz triple strength brewed coffee ( chilled )
9.1 oz lye
1oz vanilla FO
It smells awesome.  But it smells a bit like my first attempt at kitchen soap and after curing the Vanilla scent really came out.  But right now it is chocolate and rich and such a pretty color too.  I think the vanilla wontbe so strong this time because I added cocoa butter to this recipe and the first time the recipe was 1/2 the size, but still had 1oz vanilla fo. It is really nice and soft for the hands :)


Variations for Soap Recipes
- Replace water with your favorite beer, for BEER soap. (caution: make sure to use FLAT beer, add lye slowly)
- Replace water with pureed, cold, fresh cucumber for CUCUMBER soap
- Replace water with favorite herbal tea (make a very strong tea!)
- Calendula petals. . . Add half a loosely packed cup to the olive oil, and let it 'marinate for a week before using.


Seaweed Soap

6 oz Coconut oil
1 oz Grapeseed oil
34oz Olive oil
15oz less 2Tbl water
5.49oz Lye
Make Soap as usual...
Soaked 2 sheets nori (green Seaweed used to make sushi) in 2 tlb of the water added 1 Tlb Grapeseed oil to that...added this @ trace with 1oz combined
apple and cinnamon Fo...poured into 3" PCV pipe... 24 hours later unmolded and sliced...have the most beautiful green flecked soap... great lather...smells wonderful...was thinking it would be great with pear scent.

Basic Vegetable Soap

5 c. 4 oz. Olive oil
2 c. 1 oz. Coconut oil
3 c. Vegetable shortening (Crisco)
10 3/4 oz. Lye
4 c. Water
TEMPS: 95-98
4 1/2 tsp. of essential oils at trace
Rita Richards


24 ounces olive oil

24 ounces coconut oil

38 ounces vegetable shortening

12 ounces sodium hydroxide (lye)

32 ounces fresh water

8 ounces powdered oatmeal (whirl it in a blender)
temps between 95 and 100

Camille's Sure-Fire, No Way You Can Lose, Castile Soap Recipe! ;)
(30:70 lye:water ratio) Camille Pratt 2000

48 ounces olive oil
6 ounces lye
14 ounces water(this is not a mistake, trust me)

***Observe all standard safety procedures***

*Add lye to water, stirring until all lye is dissolved,
set aside to cool to 90* to 100*
*Heat oils to 90* to 100*
*Slowly pour lye solution into oils, stirring the whole time.
*Stir to thin trace, either by hand or by stick blender or both! ;)
*Once you have reached thin trace, add any FOs/EOs/Botanicals you wish
- or  nothing!.
*At medium trace, pour into prepared mold cover with cardboard, and
toss a towel on top to provide insulation (if you don't use wood molds
- I do)
*Unmold when soap is no longer warm (18 to 24+ hours) and when pressed
with your finger, a slight indention remains.
*Cut Castile right away, as it will harden to a point where you cannot
cut it.
* Minimum 8 week cure time

Low lather, gentle soap - suitable for even sensitive skin. : )
Notes to you:
In a 3# soap recipe (I just measure mine in # of oil for ease), the
typical recipe is fine. But it has those 'little glitches' in it I wanted
to work out.  So I refigured my lye:water ratio and (remember: a
30:70 is not an extreme ratio at all, in fact it is quite modest and
very 'mainstream', but will in no way decrease cure time!)
 found the castile traced quicker (but not too
quickly, you don't want to turn soapmaking into a fast food chain),
about the rate of 'regular' soap, and at 18 - 24 hours (I don't
always unmold at 18 - 24, sometimes longer, I make sure it is no
longer warm AND that it is firm enough to leave a 'slight' indention
when pressed with the finger tip), it is firm in the mold, unmolds
with ease, and I cut it right away.  Within a few hours of cutting
and airing, it is quite hard.

All 'glitches' were removed and there is no lessening of quality,
quality was never compromised.  Side by side comparisons of the 'old'
way and the 'new' way have shown them to be identical in quality,
longevity, and mildness.
Listmom2/List Moderator
Wild Iris Botanicals Soaps & Sundries

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