Soapnuts Library-Lotion Workshop Part II

testtubes Creating Lotions Workshop Part 2

Creating your own Lotion Recipes

We have some lotion recipes for you to experiment with in our library and there are others on the web. If you want to personalize a lotion to suit an individual or yourself, then you will need to know some general guidlines on how much to use of what ingredients.

I am not one to stick to guidelines, after you have some lotion making experience, you may find that you go over or under these percentages, and it works for you, but I will say that one of the most common failures in lotion making is total disregard to the guidelines. You can end up with a greasy or seperating mixture if you try to cut corners without experience first.

Homemade lotion preparations should be discarded after 1 week. This is to insure that no beasty yeasties and the like are growing in there. When using natural preservatives, I may get up to 2 months of use when stored in the refrigerator which is where all homemade lotions should be kept when not in use.

            Emulsifying Wax- 3-7%. I prefer using a vegetable based emulsifying wax. You'll notice that I don't list natural binders like lecithin, I have not had luck in using these, so I don't list them. If those of you reading this do have knowledge in this area, send it on in and I'll add it.

            Stearic Acid- 3-5% or less depending on the consistency you want to achieve. I prefer using vegetable based ingredients, so I use a soy or palm based stearic acid. This is what makes a cream stiff, it feels heavier on the skin than a lotion.

            Oils: 10-30%, this is a very large spread, you'll need to experiment with several different amounts before you find an amount you like for a given recipe, this will change depending on the oils/butters you're using.

            Vegetable Glycerin- 3-10%. Again, this is something you'll need to decide for yourself, for some, the higher amount is just to sticky. Glycerin is a humectant, which means that it grabs moisture out of the air, it can also grab the moisture out of your skin, so don't go crazy with it.

            Citric Acid- .25-1%, if you find that using the higher rate is irritating your skin, then try lessening the amount. Citric Acid is used in lotions to raise the acidity which helps make a less friendly growing ground for bacteria.
            It is not needed, but you may find it helps your lotion last longer.

            Tea Tree essential oil- approximately 1% when using as a preservative. I've found that I do get a longer life on my lotions when using this, but it shouldn't be relied upon as a complete preservative (especially if selling your wares).

            Germaben II-please contact your supplier for correct usage instructions on using this very powerful preservative. I don't use this myself.

            Distilled Water- 60-80%. Do I have to use distilled? Lotions and bacteria go hand in hand, I would recommend sterilizing all of your equipment including containers and using only distilled water or boiling.

            Essential Oils- Approximately 20-30 drops per 8 ounces of base. I like to add my essential oils by blending in right before I fill my containers.

Milk-Milk, in whatever form you decide to use it, (goatmilk is especially yummy considering the butterfat content, lactose, proteins and minerals) is also a wonderful breeding ground for "beasties", definitely should be stored in the refrigerator (lotion can also be frozen, more on that later) and tossed after 1 week, Phenonip at 1% is usually a good choice, but challenge testing should be done, you also need to consider the amount of milk, 10% is adequate, any more than that, and you will probably have to add other preservative helpers like EDTA (which I personally do not use).

Aloe vera gel is also nice in lotions, I like to mix it with my water by counting it as part of my water amount.

            If you're feeling overwhelmed by the percentages, don't worry, I'll be covering how to figure out percentages on the next page, : ).........for those of you that already know how, you get a Brownie point. For those of you whose heads go numb when calculations enter the picture, you are not alone, it's one of the most common questions that I get asked, both by e-mail and in classes.

            What else can I use in my lotions? Well, for starters, infused oils are a wonderful addition to lotions and creams. These are very personal also, you can choose herbs and flowers suitable to your own skin type.

Oily Skin Astringent herbs such as: yarrow, witch hazel, elderflower, raspberry leaves, rosemary and bay leaves.	Normal Skin Marshmallow root, calendula petals, lavender buds, rose petals.	Dry Skin Chamomile, marshmallow root, calendula, rose petals.	Sensitive Skin Comfrey, chickweed, chamomile, calendula petals.
Problem Skin Yarrow, comfrey, eucalyptus, elderflower, thyme.	Combination Skin Rose petals, lavender buds, elderflowers.	Mature Skin Calendula, marshmallow root, comfrey, rose petals.

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