Tips and Hints Page Three              Congestion Help: To help with congestion try the following, got it from a friend on another list! Make a blend of 3 parts tea tree oil, 2 parts lemon eo, 1 part (or less) sage eo. You can add a few drops to a cup of hot water and gargle, spit and then sniff the cup full of water and oils. I found that just by inhaling the vapors was enough to clear up my sinuses. Very good stuff!I even put some in a potpourri crock and had it heating for a while, that helped keep me breathing. Steph :o) Wholesale Pricing: Remember the original question was about wholesale pricing...not retail at craft shows & such. At $1 an ounce or more that puts the price at $4 or more for a 4 oz bar of soap...fine for retail but at the wholesale level it would mean the retailer would have to price the soap at $8 in his store. This just doesn't fly with the vast number of retailers or customers in most parts of the country. When soapmaking on a wholesale level you reach the point where you just can't make 8-10 pound batches anymore & stay in business. It works when you start out but the more biz you get the more soap you have to make. This is where those of us making larger batches have the advantage. We order in drums, not pails & 5 pounds of FO/EO not a pound. It cost me much less to make 240 bars at one time then it cost you to make 40 at a time. I spend less then an hour to make that many bars. My cost just went down because on each bar because my labor hours just went down! It also takes me about 5 minutes more to cut it into bars then it takes me to cut 40 because I invented a device to do it in 3 steps. Pricing Formula for your handmade creations > >What I did was take a column sheet and figure the items that I would have >to figure into my cost and make a column for each one. For instance these >are what I used. > >Raw Material >Packaging Material > >Now start with the materials that you use to make your products, raw >materials. These are Essential Oils, Fragrance Oils, Herbs, fixed oils, >salts, mold, etc. Now you need to figure out the cost of the raw materials >of the items that you sell. Take one of your batches of soap and figure out >what each ounce of oil, lye, water, herbs, essential or fragrance oil, etc. >cost and place this in the column that says "Raw Material". Have a sheet >handy at all time with the cost per ounce of each item you use and this >will help you figure your items faster. > >Then you have packaging materials. These are your bottles, boxes, wraps for >soaps, labels, bags, etc. Now figure the cost on your packaging materials >for the soap and add this to a column that says "Packaging Material." > >Then take these figures, add them up and divide by the number of bars in >that batch. Here is an example: > >Raw Materials........................$21.20 >Packaging Materials...............$ 4.20 > >Total.......................................$25.40 > >Now say there is 42 bars in this batch. Then take $25.40 and divide by 42 >and get $.60 per bar. This is the bottom line cost for the Raw and >Packaging materials in this batch of soap. Then take this figure and >multiply it by 275% or 300%. This is to help work in your utility cost and >labor. This will give you the per bar cost for you to complete making the >bars of soap. If it has many special oils you might want to use the 300%, >but if it has just basic oils with small amounts of special oils you might >want to use the 275%. This also depends on how hard it is to replace those >special oils, so work out the percentage as you see fit. > >$.60 x 275% = $1.65 total production cost per bar >$.60 x 300% = $1.80 total production cost per bar > >Now if you wish to figure out a price to sell at for wholesale, you will >first have to set the minimums that you will sell at for wholesale and then >figure out the per bar cost for wholesale. Minimums for wholesale is how >many bars you will sell at what price. > >Example: >$1.65 x 175% = $2.88 per bar wholesale if say 48 of each bar is >ordered...profit would be $1.23 per bar >$1.65 x 200% = $3.30 per bar wholesale if say 24 of each bar is >ordered...profit would be $1.65 per bar > >Now for retail you might use the figure of 300% to get the retail you will >sell your soap for. > >$1.65 x 300% = $4.95 per bar....profit would be $3.30 per bar > >Remember these are just examples, you milage may very. :-) > >Now if you need you can adjust the percentages. If the 275% to 300% is to >high, go a bit lower till you are comfortable with what you come up with. >150% or 200%, whatever you need. The lower percentages works best for >larger items sometimes and if your cost on ingredients are high. But keep >in mind, if you are doing this and really wanting to make it into a >business, you will have to pay others sometime to help you with wrapping, >packing and such, so this cost should be worked in now. > >I hope that this formula works for you and that the example explained it >well enough. >Written by >Rita Scheu ************************************************* Camille's Comments: "And Rita pointed out 3 key points that, if you are seriously looking to price your soaps, you have to look at and figure the actual cost: *raw materials *packaging *labor :) I figure a per ounce price of my oils/butters/eos/fos/everything in the raw material' category. I keep a sheet on file with these numbers/prices. Then when I make a batch of soap, I can look at the oils/butters that went into it, any coloring, fragrances and already know the *per ounce price* of raw materials, so I know exactly what that 8# batch cost ME. :) No matter what the formulation for that soap is, it is easy to figure actual cost of each different batch. I have already done the same for packaging: A sheet of my per item cost for bottles, tins, cellos, cardstock (bands) - the whole she-bang. :) The last thing I have to figure in is labor...and I think this is where a lot of folks shortchange themselves...I actually have an amount per hour (and it isn not minimum wage!) set. So if batch of soap takes me 30 minutes to measure, heat and make a batch, 30 minutes to unmold, cut and trim a batch, then 30 minutes to wrap when cured, I already know my labor costs by multiplying my 'hourly wage' by 1.5 hours (example times). I add up these three item (materials, packaging and labor) for that batch and wind up with the cost/price for the whole batch, then divide that by the number of bars that the batch made. I hope between Rita's and my notes, those that were confuse are clearer now...and just to muddy the water, lol, when you really get seriously about the business, you are going to have to figure in electricity/gas and a few other things - things that I do not bother with for now. :) I think once you work out and realize what your per ounce/per bar cost is, then you will feel more comfortable with wholesale and retail pricing. BTW, I also use this same method when pricing my dolls., or any other work I am selling. I have been happy with it. :)" Camille Listmom2/List Moderator ***************************************************** and my own "don't have time to bother method" costs x 144% packagingx150% add those two results together and then multiply by 200-400% to get your retail selling price, use the lower percentage if you find the price too high for your area, etc. then figure out what you would like to wholesale at to get your wholesale price. Before anyone picks this apart and brings up 'what if' 'blah-blah' like I said, this formula usually works well for me, if you have one you like better, send it in so we can see a variety, goodness knows there's enough of them floating around out there, ; ) Help for migraines: I have used EOs and a tea for my migranes and my son's. The EOs that I use are Peppermint and Lavendar in a two to one ratio...then add it to almond oil as the carrier. 2 gtts Peppermint Oil 1 gtt Lavender Oil 1/8 oz Almond Oil Blend the essentail oils with the almond oil. I'll put a couple of drops, from the blend, on my fingertips and rub it into the area where the pain is, then a couple of more drops are blended into the base of my neck. Then just inhale from the bottle a couple of times. Usually the pain starts to subside in a few minutes...if not I repeat about 15 minutes later. The tea that we drink is called Migra-wonder and can be gotten at a health food store...it contains willow bark and a few other herbs that are great for headaches. I don't have the box here at home as my son took it to his apartment the other night...I will have to go and get another box soon. Jen EO amounts per pound!: Well, my old pet peeve (propylene glycol) has taken a back seat to this one. I would now like to find the person that first came up with the .7, .9, .4 bit & strangle them! There are no general rules for EO's. Essential oils are powerful chemicals. Some can cause allergies, allergic reactions, are phototoxic, cause skin irritation, etc. Before using essential oils it's a good idea to do as much research on the oils you are using as possible. Now what they do, what the dangers are of each oil, etc. The .7 oz. of EO per pound of oils  works out to a bit over 4%. So let's look at the safe usage rate of a couple oils.... Balsam of Peru...max .8% way under 4%! Balsam Tolu... max .1% in soaps & .2% in perfumes. Bergamot...max .25% in cosmetics and 3% in perfumes Rosewood...max 1.2% in soaps, perfume, creams, lotions,etc. Cananga...better known as ylang-ylang...max 1% Caraway..max .4% in toothpaste, soap, creamss, lotions, perfumes Cardamon..max .4% in soap, cream, lotion, shampoos, perfumes Jasmine...max .3% in cosmetics & perfumes. Lime...max 1.5% in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes Peppermint/Spearmint...max .4% in soap, cosmetics and perfumes. Cornmint...max .8% in soap, cosmetics and perfumes. Myrrh..max .8% in soaps, cosmetic and perfumes. Olibanum...better know as Frankincense...max .8% in soaps, cosmetics and perfume Rosemary...max 1% in soap, cosmetics. Sage...max .8% in soaps and cosmetics So, as you can see, generalities don't work! Also, when you use more fragrance material then your soap can hold it precipitates out of the mixture. It either evaporates into the air as the mix heats up or it appears as drops on the top of your soap.  All that money up in the air or in the trash can, which is where you throw the paper towel that you used to wipe it off with! This applies to FO's as well as EO's. Helen You know you have a houseful of sons when: 1. you can wear your child's coolest hiking boots...and said child is in third grade. 2. you have more unmatched white gym socks in your home than you do fragrance oils on your fo shelf. 3. your child returns from a buffet with a plate containing 4 kinds of meat and a side of tortilla chips. 4. your child's and your husband's underwear are the same size. 5. you have to wash the soap before you use it. 6. you know way too much about the herbal treatment of athlete's foot. 7. you have paid for at least one set of x-rays depicting the location of a bb. 8. you have first-hand experience in watching ER doctors "super-glue" a finger back together...on New Year's eve, when your insurance has just expired, you are nine months pregnant, and the ice was an inch thick on the car. 9. you are not surprised to walk in and discover that your toilet has disappeared beneath a massive mound of bubbles that smell mysteriously like Joy dish soap. 10. when you kiss your baby goodnight, you have to stand on your tiptoes. 11. you have found yourself patiently explaining the merits of using a good decision-making process before putting a 5 foot black snake in the deep freeze, even if it *is* dead already. Karol Conversion Charts: Here is one I use for everyday calculations http://www.joshmadison.com/software/convert/ also, MMS has one on their lye calulator http://www.the-sage.com/services/calculator.html Kim Making Incense: You can make incense easily by diluting the fragrance oil 1:3-4 w/dipropylene glycol, or propylene glycol  *I am not sure if those are spelled right...you soak the incense over night in the solution. Penny Shopping Carts: You have to shop around and find the best merchant account deal that you're comfortable with. Don't forget to try a local bank, sometimes they can surprise you. For a cart, I have to second Candace's recommedation of Dansie--it's a great buy, offering terrific features and flexibility for the price. And the programmer guarantees it'll work on your server. He has some recommedations for merchant/transaction processor companies on his site so you might try there first. http://www.dansie.net/cart.html Jeanne Peppermint Swirl MP: when I make my peppermint swirl.  I pour a layer of red clear glycerine ( I use food coloring for this) then when it starts to skim over I spritz it with alchol and pour my white ( opaque) glycerine, wait for it ti skim, spritz with alchol again and pour another layer of red. When it sets up a bit but is still soft and plyable, I cut in strips and roll them up. ( you have to be fast or they will not roll). Then I slice thm in about one or two inch  sections, let dry and wrap. I don't  know how you would make them diagonly unless you cut it on the bias and rolled fron one corner to the opposite corner on the opposite end of the cookie pan.  ( It is too early in the morning to think or type.   got to go get some coffee.)  Barb Boric Acid vs. Borax The problem with this debate is that most of the info out there about the two items are very confusing to the reader......and often they don't distinguish between the two and actually combine them as if they are one entitiy. Boric acid is made by treating sodium borate (borax) with sulfuric acid. You don't want to use boric acid in your toiletries, borax is the right stuff! Boric acid is not found in nature, whereas sodium borate is. Becky Pouring into Individual Molds: When I pour into individual molds, I only make 2# batches...this is exactly enough to fill 16 molds and there's just enough room in my oven for these...laid 2 sheets abreast on each rack...If I make them in larger quantities, I use higher temps and/or use a FO that I know really heats up...ingredients like and Honey and Oatmeal are my favorite choice for these individual bars... Also, you can purchase a sheet of strofoam and place your soap on top, place another styrofoam sheet on the top of your soap, then wrap the whole thing in blankets...been known to loosely throw an electric blanket on low for larger batches for extra measure...Just until I know it's heating anyway, during the first 2-3 hours...Loss of heat is the biggest pain where individual molds are concerned...that and a Fo that may accelerate trace not giving you enough time to neatly pourand opting instead for the 'slopping' in of rapidly setting up soap..  :oPTo this end, I favor my PVC molds for large (ok, I'll admit it) or even smallbatches.... Once my soap sets up, I can pop it in the oven to keep warm...also, I've made'mold cozies' (yea, I'm a certifiable card carrying soapnut too)...I purchase berber fleece (LOVE this stuff for *Everything, makes cool scarves, blankets, throws, pillows, pet beds,all sorts of stuff!) by the yard at my favorite fabric store (you can use old woolen socks with the foot cut off, if so inclined)...just sew fleece into a simple tube and slip over the length of my PVC molds...keeps soap warm and toasty!...by the way, if you sew, makes good stocking stuffers for your favorite soaper on your X-mas list!) Your best recourse is to keep meticulous notes and know which FO/EO's either heat up or don't....that way you don't have to play a guessing game!...If I jumped through all these hoops for my Cinnamon Leaf and Nutmeg soap, it'd heat up enough to jump right outta the mold and yell...WHO TURNED THE THERMOSTAT UP SO DARN HIGH???!!!...in the manner befitting only thrifty dads and hubbies!...more likely I'll have holey soap where it begins to rise in the center and almost climb outta the mold from the build-up of too much heat... Now my lavender, well, she likes to be kept cozy!...that's my story...  :o) Antoinette Paper Weight for cigar band labels: Its really up to you, but the 90# is more like cardstock weight and not as bendy (k, never said I could 'splain good ; )).  If you use 90# you're apt to get a lot of slipping and sliding on your soap.  I use 50# and I'm happy with it.  The 90# is great for hang tags (the folded over kind with a cello bag attached) or a folded card style tag. Shannon Filling Lip Balm Tubes: Go to your pet supply store & get the plastic syringes ( w/o needles ) for administering meds .  & you can rubberband together groups of tubes. It gives stability & not as many drips. Helen I've found that covering the counter w/ aluminum foil, place tubes on foil, then take a disposable pipette and cut the end off is a great easy way to fill the tube w/out making a giant mess. When done, simply throw the foil away. Sherri Gel Stage in Milk Soaps: There are two schools of thought on gel.  I will say this:  I do not let my milksoaps go through gel. I have inserted a thermometer in a few batches to see how hot it became in the mold, and it was in excess of 170° to 180° and this was with no insulation and no nutrients. "Egads" I thought!  Why bother to put the milk  and other wonderful additives if I am going to bake the peewally out of it????  So, I avoid gel by handstirring the milksoaps and using lower temps I use the same technique on other soaps without milk. I know other's think it must gel, but then I noticed how hot it was and I noticed that gel was a hop-skip and a jump away from those awful heat ripples you get if a soap is too hot.  SO, I use lower temps, and hand stir once I use the stir to be sure the oils and lye solution are incorporated (Less than 10-15 seconds). My soap is gentle, has wonderful lather, and is hard as a rock.  It works for me and I am not convinced that gel is needed. Let the feud begin!!! LOL Camille                                                                      Next Page Copyright Notice! 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